AOD vs C4

[strokedblueLX]

Im getting ready to have my motor built with in the next month and i am wondering about what transmission i should go with. the motor is a 347 with the trick flow street top end kit. And im looking to be making around the 380hp mark. Ive been pondering the idea of getting the AOD built that is in the car or should i go with a built C4 from PA or TCI. I want to keep the car street friendly and track worthy at the same time. But im going to try and keep the track time to once or twice a month. What would yall go with or are running now and have had great results.

[Silver91Hatch]

My personal vote would be a AOD with the 4R70W gearset with a SilverFox valve body for the mods and a 4.10 gear. It will come out of the hole like a demon and have the same OD as a regular AOD.

[nastynotchback1]

My personal vote would be a AOD with the 4R70W gearset with a SilverFox valve body for the mods and a 4.10 gear. It will come out of the hole like a demon and have the same OD as a regular AOD.

this what i also would probably do but one other thing is i would by this aod stall converter i have to go with it:thumbsup1:

[Notch93]

My personal vote would be a AOD with the 4R70W gearset with a SilverFox valve body for the mods and a 4.10 gear. It will come out of the hole like a demon and have the same OD as a regular AOD.

I would just buy a built AOD from Dan (SilverFox).:yes1:

[JohnJ316]

Agreed AOD:thumbsup1:

[Silver91Hatch]

I would just buy a built AOD with 4R70W internals from Dan (SilverFox).:yes1:

Fixed

[Code Blue]

Don't forget the "A" servo from a Turbo T-Bird. Much more clamping force on the overdrive band. A hardened input shaft is also a wise choice. They are available in 2-piece design for lock up converters and 1-piece design for higher hp / tq applications with non-lock up converters. Drums can be modified for additional clutches and steels, too, but shouldn't be needed for your estimated power plans.

[Notch93]

Fixed

If built correct, no need for the 4R70W gearset.:nonono1:

[Wayne's 88 GT]

If built correct, no need for the 4R70W gearset.:nonono1:

Agreed..........unless you want the 2.84 1st instead of the AOD 1st gear.

[Silver91Hatch]

If built correct, no need for the 4R70W gearset.:nonono1:

The advantage of the 4R gear set is the gearing. You keep the same 3rd and 4th but lower 1st and 2nd. With the 4R gear set a 3.73 rear gear will leave like a 4.30 and keep a better cruise RPM. :yes1::yes1::yes1:

[Notch93]

The advantage of the 4R gear set is the gearing. You keep the same 3rd and 4th but lower 1st and 2nd. With the 4R gear set a 3.73 rear gear will leave like a 4.30 and keep a better cruise RPM. :yes1::yes1::yes1:

A lot cheaper to just have 4.10's in the rear, then the added cost of the 4R70W gear set.:yes1: All the 4R70W gear set is, was the discontinued Ford Racing Wide Gear Ratio gear set.

[Silver91Hatch]

Yeah but with the 4R stuff you get a 2" wide O/D band... I am installing a 4R in my 69 for street/strip duty. From the failure rate I see at work the 4R's are really stout transmissions. Take the best of both worlds... 4R internals in an AOD case. No electricals, stronger internals and better gearing. Then with 4.10's you will basically have 4.56's and ok overdrive.

[Notch93]

Yeah but with the 4R stuff you get a 2" wide O/D band... I am installing a 4R in my 69 for street/strip duty. From the failure rate I see at work the 4R's are really stout transmissions. Take the best of both worlds... 4R internals in an AOD case. No electricals, stronger internals and better gearing. Then with 4.10's you will basically have 4.56's and ok overdrive.

So, I have the same 2" OD band in my AOD.:yes1:

Have to call :bsflag: on ya Barry, if you think the stock 4R70W internals, are stronger then some of the aftermarket AOD pieces.:yes1:

[Silver91Hatch]

So, I have the same 2" OD band in my AOD.:yes1:

Have to call :bsflag: on ya Barry, if you think the stock 4R70W internals, are stronger then some of the aftermarket AOD pieces.:yes1:

I'm speaking stock to stock, apples to apples. AOD's have 1.5" to 4R's 2" band, AOD's have small servos where 4R's have a LOT larger servos. The 4R's have another friction in the direct clutch, also the One Way Clutch in the AOD is a known weak point that was beefed up in the 98+ 4R's. Apples to apples the 4R will take more abuse and last longer than the AOD. How many input shafts in AOD have you seen broken? Now the 4R? I don't fret the :bsflag: its not the first time I have seen it...:thumbsup1:

[Notch93]

I would just buy a built AOD with 4R70W internals from Dan (SilverFox).:yes1:


Fixed

Stock for stock I agree, a stock AOD is a POS. :yes1:

But I was not talking about a stock AOD.:nonono1:

[Silver91Hatch]

Well really for his car it just depends on what rear gear he wants to run. 4.10-4.30 go for an AOD, 355-3.73 go for 4R70Wed AOD, 3.08-3.27 C4.

[mustangpro]

C4 or Powerglide for trailer queen. And the AOD..... BAH! Consider a 4R70W with the Baumann Electronic Controls. Power handling capacities, very reliable, easy to find, electronic shift will give you unlimited shift control. Set it and forget for track and cruising conditions. Right now I'm going with a 4R manual shift, but once I get my 351W up and running I'll switch over the e-shift.

To REALLY send power through an AOD you have to get rid of lock-up, then you lose some overdrive capability, read slippage, and that makes heat, a tranny's worst enemy. So then what's the point of going AOD?

[Badass1993]

C4 or Powerglide for trailer queen. And the AOD..... BAH! Consider a 4R70W with the Baumann Electronic Controls. Power handling capacities, very reliable, easy to find, electronic shift will give you unlimited shift control. Set it and forget for track and cruising conditions. Right now I'm going with a 4R manual shift, but once I get my 351W up and running I'll switch over the e-shift.

To REALLY send power through an AOD you have to get rid of lock-up, then you lose some overdrive capability, read slippage, and that makes heat, a tranny's worst enemy. So then what's the point of going AOD?

Im tired of breaking 5 speeds,and need a OD.....But +1 full manual valve body is the only way to go,seen a few last for quite a while behind some serious power

[asheborogn]

C4 with a Gear Vendors unit behind it... :thumbsup1:

[Silver91Hatch]

C4 with a Gear Vendors unit behind it... :thumbsup1:

Cool but no cheap

[asheborogn]

Cool but no cheap

So true my friend......

If its not a daily driver, I would go with a glide , turbo 350 or a C4 personally..... That is if you plan on running it at times... If you just want it to cruise around, drive to car shows, and not run it, I would def. go with a AODE from PA...

[asheborogn]

Im getting ready to have my motor built with in the next month and i am wondering about what transmission i should go with. the motor is a 347 with the trick flow street top end kit. And im looking to be making around the 380hp mark. Ive been pondering the idea of getting the AOD built that is in the car or should i go with a built C4 from PA or TCI. I want to keep the car street friendly and track worthy at the same time. But im going to try and keep the track time to once or twice a month. What would yall go with or are running now and have had great results.

What will it be geared and what stall are you using? I would personally go with PA or Dynamic no matter what direction you go.... I really like the idea of a turbo 350 as well.