Engine idea

[MustangCRZY302]

Well, I've been thinking...


I have a stock 302 block/ rotating assembly in my garage, waiting...

Here's what I was thinking...

Snag some AFR165's, freshen up the bottom end (bearings, rings), Punch block out to 306, New pistons (obviously),I have 48 # injectors waiting to go in..

Now my questions, what do ya'll suggest for:

CAM? - Should I stick with my E cam? or step up to the F, because I'll be doing new vavle train with the new heads?

Intake? - Will my Edelbrock Performer, hurt me or help me?

Open to any suggestions/ideas!

I'm looking to make about 500-550 at the tire, so I KNOW I'll need a girdle for the bottom end, and the lifter valley girdle to be safe.

[Notch93]

As far as the cam goes, throw the alphabet cam's in the trash.:yes1: If you want a off the self cam check this one out.

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000059b~Z5Z5Z5AAAIU~ P269.95~~~~S2FP15Z6CZ76109114836d~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z5000 0059b

To get the max ot your combo, either give Jay Allen or Ed Curtis a call and get a custom cam.

What power adder will you use to make 500 to the wheels, because a H/C/I 306 will not put down 500+ to the wheels without a power adder.

And if your really wanting to get to the 500-550 mark, I would at least get one of the new Boss 302 blocks. It would be a shame to see you do all that work and money, to just split a stock block.

[MustangCRZY302]

As far as the cam goes, throw the alphabet cam's in the trash.:yes1: If you want a off the self cam check this one out.

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000059b~Z5Z5Z5AAAIU~ P269.95~~~~S2FP15Z6CZ76109114836d~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z5000 0059b

To get the max ot your combo, either give Jay Allen or Ed Curtis a call and get a custom cam.

What power adder will you use to make 500 to the wheels, because a H/C/I 306 will not put down 500+ to the wheels without a power adder.

And if your really wanting to get to the 500-550 mark, I would at least get one of the new Boss 302 blocks. It would be a shame to see you do all that work and money, to just split a stock block.


well guess I should have mentioned i'll be keeping my Vortech. LoL. 12 psi. I'd rather not buy a whole new block, just because I have this one ready to go.. Trying to do it on somewhat of a budget..

[Badass1993]

To make that kinda power,forget the 165's....your gonna need 185's or bigger......cam needs to be in the .540-.560 lift range....Intakes is going to have to be something fairly large as well.....Holley,TrickFlow R, Elerbrock Victor.......and might need bigger injectors,depending......


MY setup consisted of 306,AFR 185's B-41 cam (.542-.563 lift) Holley intake,#42 injectors,aermotive A1000 pump...thru a 5 speed it laid down 568RWHP,and 542RWTQ......@ 15psi from a vortech S-trim

[NXStang]

OK, first off....AFR165's is a GREAT choice. According to your cam you may need springs but out of the box they are GREAT.

Why do you want to punch it out to a 306? Does it need to be bored out? If not, stick with the stock pistons....new rings and bearings, ARP main studs and rod bolts. good to go.

For a cam forget letter cams. a TrickFlow Stage 1 cam is AWESOME for power in a street driven car. I run the similar Lunati version of the cam and LOVE it. noticeable lope but yet VERY tame and friendly.

Id do a good set of headers...preferably long tubes with a lil bigger primary.

intake wise you have a good short runner (IIRC) that will work great.

Upgrade the fuel system and ignition if you can, well spent upgrades!

Good luck!!!

[MustangCRZY302]

OK, first off....AFR165's is a GREAT choice. According to your cam you may need springs but out of the box they are GREAT.

Why do you want to punch it out to a 306? Does it need to be bored out? If not, stick with the stock pistons....new rings and bearings, ARP main studs and rod bolts. good to go.

For a cam forget letter cams. a TrickFlow Stage 1 cam is AWESOME for power in a street driven car. I run the similar Lunati version of the cam and LOVE it. noticeable lope but yet VERY tame and friendly.

Id do a good set of headers...preferably long tubes with a lil bigger primary.

intake wise you have a good short runner (IIRC) that will work great.

Upgrade the fuel system and ignition if you can, well spent upgrades!

Good luck!!!

well the block doesn't NEED to be punched out. But I kinda figured since I'd be taking the block to the machine shop to be checked out anyway, they might as well just do the .030 over. but if I can make the power I want with the 302, then i'd gladly stay with that. save some cash.

My Fuel system now consists of Vortech T-Rex inline pump, and a Walbroh 255 in the tank. And I also have the MSD Ignition with the Boost Retard Circuit. So i should be good to go there. I'm running 30# injectors now, but I have a set of 48#ers ready to go. just need the Lightning MAF, and a tune on my SCT and i'll be set. (they are the newer design, different Injector Offset) Will my fuel system and ignition hold up to that power?

[MustangCRZY302]

To make that kinda power,forget the 165's....your gonna need 185's or bigger......cam needs to be in the .540-.560 lift range....Intakes is going to have to be something fairly large as well.....Holley,TrickFlow R, Elerbrock Victor.......and might need bigger injectors,depending......


MY setup consisted of 306,AFR 185's B-41 cam (.542-.563 lift) Holley intake,#42 injectors,aermotive A1000 pump...thru a 5 speed it laid down 568RWHP,and 542RWTQ......@ 15psi from a vortech S-trim


would I be hurting myself power wise if I went with the 165's? i figured the smaller CC combustion chamber would work better with the Boost? i could be wrong though.

[Superstroke17]

Well too start off is the block from a mustang. If so it should have forged pistons which are need with the s/cer. If your building on a budget i would stay with the std bore because forged pistons can be a little pricey. Personally if i had to spend a good bit on heads i'd go ahead and step up to at least 185's. I'd definately use a girdle on the bottom end and like nxstang said the tf stage 1 cam is a proven all around great street/strip cam. Just some thoughts

[MustangCRZY302]

I got the block out of a running four eyed fox, but it IS NOT the original motor from that car. So im not sure if it's from a mustang originally or not. if I don't have to buy pistons that would be great as well! more saving $$$, how can i tell if they are forged by looking them? crank, and rods as well.

[Superstroke17]

Well I'm not 100 percent sure but i do know the forged pistons will have valve reliefs and i believe all factory cast pistons didn't have them. I believe forged pistons didn't start until 87. But i could be wrong. Maybe someone who knows for sure will chime in. I do know if you look at the bottom of the pistons cast pistons will have like x markings from the casting process and forged ones are smooth. But like i said before if they don't have reliefs they're probably cast. I hope this helps

[MustangCRZY302]

Well I'm not 100 percent sure but i do know the forged pistons will have valve reliefs and i believe all factory cast pistons didn't have them. I believe forged pistons didn't start until 87. But i could be wrong. Maybe someone who knows for sure will chime in. I do know if you look at the bottom of the pistons cast pistons will have like x markings from the casting process and forged ones are smooth. But like i said before if they don't have reliefs they're probably cast. I hope this helps

Thanks for the info! I'll be looking at my pistons ASAP!

Thanks for all the help everybody, I'm still learning how to build up a motor so any help I get is appreciated!

[nastynotchback1]

i would go for something in the 185cc range like tw,afr,ect.the holley intake is a good choice for boosted cars and i would go with a anderson ford cam(call them for proper cam).an after market block is also a must because all those gimmic girdles will do is hold the block together when it splits.if you are going to use the block you have then make sure it has forged pistons and if not bore it and install some.anyway pm xsr and tell him what you are trying to do and he will get you right.

[SVTSkip]

Forget the E cam Adam. There's A LOT better out there. The one listed by Notch93 looks to be OK, but for off the shelf I'd say AFM B#31, or #41. I'd rather see a FTI custom there from Ed Curtis though...

For that power level at the rear wheels I'd like to see an aftermarket block used.

Ford went to forged pistons in 85 if I recall correctly, and the 86 ones were not equipped with valve reliefs. The reliefs themselves are not the sure ID feature either as the 93-95 cast pistons have them as well, so make sure you have a known set of forged pistons before starting the build.

As to the heads I'd also like to see more than a 165 head used. I'd consider 185's to be the minimum here. You can pm T-Tops if you need hookups on the pricing of any of the internal components, or the heads like I run. He can save you a TON !

[bags50lx]

Like everybody else has said the 185 would be a great head on your car. Throw a AFM powerpipe on it and you should be able to meet your goals. I have done a couple of cars that had 165's and a bunch with 185's and suprisingly the 185's made the same or a liitle more power down low than the 165's did. Now these cars did have a cam and intake on them like yours. Never tried the 165 on a stock intake and stock cam so I dont have a clue as to the power that would make. But if I was to build a 302 again it would be with the 185's or bigger if it had a power adder. Also your intake will not hurt you unless you are going for MAX power. And honestly I dought you'll gain 10 hp by changing intakes because your blowing air thru it. Like skip and notch said dont use the aphabet cams yes they work but they are 18 years old technology. Theres much better stuff out now.