fastest street car shootout

[bangngearz]

i know STREET CAR is a difficult term to explain, but i was thinking about getting some guys together and renting the little track at elgin for a day and doing a dot tire (real street car) type shootout. tags, insurance, registration, etc would have to go with the car, no tubs, or gutted interiors. there are so many daily driver type cars that like to play and even some serious drivers, i think it could have a big turn out with more to follow. the owner of the track really doesn't push for any type of racing, and if any of you guys have been there on the last few sundays, there has been a bunch of mustangs and other street cars there just making pass after pass. maybe charge like 25$ per car with a 25 car minimum field, everyone picks a number and thats your race. heads up, no whinning about tires or motor, first one to the end wins. payouts (based on 25 cars) could be something like 300$ 1st, 200$ 2nd and 125$ 3rd, then have a small trophy or cheap plaque to the winner. it's just an idea, any input you guys have, feel fee to add to it. maybe this site could promote it and make it a monthly challange with a write up and pics about the winner each race. just my .02, later dave o.

[Long_Stroke]

I like the idea. Would be nice to have something like this at SGMP.

:D

[JSTA306]

I like the idea!! I wish our local tracks would do more of this. If you don't fit in the S/S or Outlaw classes, then you are SOL. Let me know if this pans out. I would like to come down and run this. :hi:
I've been to Elgin quite a few times. Long before they were crowded! I remember running there on Sunday afternoons when there were maybe 10 cars total!!:yes1:
Later,
Paul

[cammincoupe]

im in ... just would like to get out that way and make some practice passes since i have never even been there lol

[fast50]

I like the idea but what is a street car. If you have been to the fun ford events or others their real street classes are a joke. 90% of the entries are legit then you have guys show up with cars that can barely be called street in anybodies book.

Don't flame me because these are just my opinions, to me street car means a radio (AC and Heat are optional) a transmission that doesn't require a tutorial on how to shift (example is a transmission that is offered in production cars or stock equivalent like TKO 500 and 600). Full interior, back seat can be deleted. And the really hard part is I think a street car needs to be able to handle to a degree. I don't mean road race legit I mean it has to at minimum be able to slalom the same or better speed when it was stock. I know allot of guys run skinnies up front but if it can't handle at least like it did when it was new you have started down the road of a purpose built track car.

[Silver91Hatch]

How about tire rated?? Roxsboro is running a 275 DR class, I would like to see a 255 or a 225 class, make your car work to get down the track.

[JSTA306]

I like the idea but what is a street car. If you have been to the fun ford events or others their real street classes are a joke. 90% of the entries are legit then you have guys show up with cars that can barely be called street in anybodies book.

Don't flame me because these are just my opinions, to me street car means a radio (AC and Heat are optional) a transmission that doesn't require a tutorial on how to shift (example is a transmission that is offered in production cars or stock equivalent like TKO 500 and 600). Full interior, back seat can be deleted. And the really hard part is I think a street car needs to be able to handle to a degree. I don't mean road race legit I mean it has to at minimum be able to slalom the same or better speed when it was stock. I know allot of guys run skinnies up front but if it can't handle at least like it did when it was new you have started down the road of a purpose built track car.

I agree completely! In every street car class, you're going to have somebody that is trying to push the envelope with cubing inches and tire size. And once you start bending the rules ever so much, then somebody will always stretch it to the limit! FACT..

How about these rules if you really want to keep the label Real Street Car:
1) Tire must be no larger than 275 and must be DOT Legal.
2) Only one power adder allowed.
3) Only factory production type block allowed for vehicle year.
Example: What ever size motor your car came with from factory, you must run in the class.
4) Car must retain full interior, no gutting, with both seats.
5) Car must have tag and insurance present.

Vehicles must drive approximately XX miles without refilling of gas. Come back, and have eliminations after cool down.

These are just some rules that I think will narrow down the playing field a little. Also show what the REAL street cars are made of. Just my opinion.

Paul

[cammincoupe]

factory width rears no narrowed rear, minitubs,or any kind of launch controll devices ex two step, transebrake

[fast50]

I like it! The only thing is I would probably let cubic inches by because I have seen some very nice street cars with 331's and 347's, full AC and Heat.

I agree completely! In every street car class, you're going to have somebody that is trying to push the envelope with cubing inches and tire size. And once you start bending the rules ever so much, then somebody will always stretch it to the limit! FACT..

How about these rules if you really want to keep the label Real Street Car:
1) Tire must be no larger than 275 and must be DOT Legal.
2) Only one power adder allowed.
3) Only factory production type block allowed for vehicle year.
Example: What ever size motor your car came with from factory, you must run in the class.
4) Car must retain full interior, no gutting, with both seats.
5) Car must have tag and insurance present.

Vehicles must drive approximately XX miles without refilling of gas. Come back, and have eliminations after cool down.

These are just some rules that I think will narrow down the playing field a little. Also show what the REAL street cars are made of. Just my opinion.

Paul

[cammincoupe]

yea i was thinking he ment just 302 blocks doesnt matter whats inside as long as its a 302 basemotor bc what about the guys running 16 psi of boost and what not or the stock short block guys with a huge t66 or 70 on there making 550 hp strokers should be aloud as long as there not in anything other then a 302 block heck i have a347

[JSTA306]

yea i was thinking he ment just 302 blocks doesnt matter whats inside as long as its a 302 basemotor bc what about the guys running 16 psi of boost and what not or the stock short block guys with a huge t66 or 70 on there making 550 hp strokers should be aloud as long as there not in anything other then a 302 block heck i have a347

Yes I did mean 302 blocks. Mine is bored 30 over, but it's still 302 block. I think with the tire limit, and the street cruise, that a lot of the cars will be on a level playing field. I think with the factory production type block rule, that it will cut out a lot of cars with huge turbos and big ci motors that really don't represent a "True-Street" car. Now don't get me wrong, I have seen some very streatable big block cars before. But for this class, I wouldn't allow them unless factory produced.

[fast50]

I agree this would represent 95% of the cars we all have and know. It would help keep the big cash rides out of it. I really appreciate the time and money people put into those cars but it sucks to have a street class race won by a car you know only sees a few hundred street miles a year.

Yes I did mean 302 blocks. Mine is bored 30 over, but it's still 302 block. I think with the tire limit, and the street cruise, that a lot of the cars will be on a level playing field. I think with the factory production type block rule, that it will cut out a lot of cars with huge turbos and big ci motors that really don't represent a "True-Street" car. Now don't get me wrong, I have seen some very streatable big block cars before. But for this class, I wouldn't allow them unless factory produced.

[bonesgt]

Ya'll keep the ideas coming. This may turn into something do able!!

[Stable]

This would be nice, but tuff to keep out some fast "street" cars. About the only way is to have a non drag slick/drag radial tire.......

[bangngearz]

as always, what is defined as a street car and what really is will never be clear. one way to weed out the racecars is meet at a central location that is 20+ miles away from the track, and convoy to the race. not to copy the 30 mile true street thing, just have the cars drive in and race. how about a manual trans group and auto group? the winner of each does battle for the overall win? it would also take several members to help with basic tech and general car inspection. i can't see how this couldn't draw a bunch of street cars, i know at least 20 that would show up. WHAT ABOUT MAKING IT MUSTANGS VS GM or mustangs only?

[Badass1993]

We had a race at the end of last year,a "street" race so to speak......cars had to drive 45miles,make two back to back qualifing passes,and then race.....you know current inspection,working turn signals,brake lights,taged and insured as well as stock dashes,and two seats....Needless to say it was a hit,with the top qualifier going 5.35 @130+........oh and this was at 3000 lbs with a single power adder........this is pretty much the same as the 275 class at roxboro,only it has tire requirments,where top qualifier went 5.48 @ 141 on a "slick" track.......

[Long_Stroke]

as always, what is defined as a street car and what really is will never be clear. one way to weed out the racecars is meet at a central location that is 20+ miles away from the track, and convoy to the race. not to copy the 30 mile true street thing, just have the cars drive in and race. how about a manual trans group and auto group? the winner of each does battle for the overall win? it would also take several members to help with basic tech and general car inspection. i can't see how this couldn't draw a bunch of street cars, i know at least 20 that would show up. WHAT ABOUT MAKING IT MUSTANGS VS GM or mustangs only?


I like your idea's!!!

The one thing that came up in the thread which I wouldn't like is the comment about cubic inches. I've always wanted a windsor in the car and have daily drivin a 408 with a solid roller cam for 3-1/2 years. This was 20 miles each way to work everyday. Now that 408, even though it's got big cubes can still get smoked by a small cube motor with a good turbo or blower. Example my buddys 306 with an under .500 lift hydrolic roller going 9.2's. I mean it does have a Vortech XX ;)


Cool idea's though guys!

[fast50]

Thats why street get blurry. How about a quick way to weed out race cars is all cars with autos must have a at least 4 forward gears. Working radios and no cage bigger than 6 point. Front tires must be at least 6 inches wide and you can only run 93 octane. Everybody can fill up at the start of the cruise and you have to put in at least 10 gallons.

[cammincoupe]

Thats why street get blurry. How about a quick way to weed out race cars is all cars with autos must have a at least 4 forward gears. Working radios and no cage bigger than 6 point. Front tires must be at least 6 inches wide and you can only run 93 octane. Everybody can fill up at the start of the cruise and you have to put in at least 10 gallons.

i like that idea... does a lentech aod pass tech lol just flip a switch and i have od

[JSTA306]

as always, what is defined as a street car and what really is will never be clear. one way to weed out the racecars is meet at a central location that is 20+ miles away from the track, and convoy to the race. not to copy the 30 mile true street thing, just have the cars drive in and race. how about a manual trans group and auto group? the winner of each does battle for the overall win? it would also take several members to help with basic tech and general car inspection. i can't see how this couldn't draw a bunch of street cars, i know at least 20 that would show up. WHAT ABOUT MAKING IT MUSTANGS VS GM or mustangs only?

:yes1::yes1::yes1:

[cammincoupe]

i think this would be great if we can get this set up. It would prolly be a killer turn out.

[JSTA306]

Thats why street get blurry. How about a quick way to weed out race cars is all cars with autos must have a at least 4 forward gears. Working radios and no cage bigger than 6 point. Front tires must be at least 6 inches wide and you can only run 93 octane. Everybody can fill up at the start of the cruise and you have to put in at least 10 gallons.

I don't agree with putting a limt on cage points. That's a safety concern. Doesn't have anything to do with race or street car. Just like if I want to run driveshaft loop to keep driveshaft from falling out, it doesn't make it any more of a race car. Adding safety items doesn't make you any faster.
Just makes you smarter!

If you cut down on front tire size, then it may hinder your car count. 95% of the True Street contestants at Fun Ford events run skinny tires up front. I think the engine limitation will make it more of a level playing field.
Just my.02
Paul

[cammincoupe]

front tire size in my opinion shouldnt matter bc how many of us guys running welds are running a 6 inch wide tire on our cars even when they were just bolt on cars with a gear i know i would buy a set of 6 inch wide weld wheels , but thats just me.

[fast50]

See this is why it is hard to define "street". I put the cage limit because if I see someone with more than a 6 point cage, that screams RACE CAR. The reason I put tire width is again personally I think if a car can't handle at least as well as when it was new than it is a drag car that see's some street driving.

The line starts getting fuzzy. If you take a 6 sec 1/4 car and put lights, turn signals, horn, wipers and it can drive 25 miles is that a street car? I think it gets confusing because people start defining street as what you have to have to make it road legal. When maybe we should be starting from the point of what would I drive to Myrtle Beach in, go cruising and then drive back home with.

Again I'm not bashing just talking. If we can define street to everyone's liking I think we might set history!

[cammincoupe]

See this is why it is hard to define "street". I put the cage limit because if I see someone with more than a 6 point cage, that screams RACE CAR. The reason I put tire width is again personally I think if a car can't handle at least as well as when it was new than it is a drag car that see's some street driving.

The line starts getting fuzzy. If you take a 6 sec 1/4 car and put lights, turn signals, horn, wipers and it can drive 25 miles is that a street car? I think it gets confusing because people start defining street as what you have to have to make it road legal. When maybe we should be starting from the point of what would I drive to Myrtle Beach in, go cruising and then drive back home with.

Again I'm not bashing just talking. If we can define street to everyone's liking I think we might set history!
i agree... but like i said how many people love the way a weld wheel looks but is going to buy a 6inch wide front runner? i have skinny wheels on m y car and as a 4cyl car to begin with it handles no different with no sway bar and 90/10 struts and lil wheels on it then it did with the factory stuff i really think any kind of factory location suspenion parts shouldnt matter but thats just me

[fast50]

Thats a good point. So is it better to make the drive longer. Sort of Hot Rod Power Tour style. Maybe make it 60 miles than go racing with no fill ups and no limits on what the car has?

[cammincoupe]

Thats a good point. So is it better to make the drive longer. Sort of Hot Rod Power Tour style. Maybe make it 60 miles than go racing with no fill ups and no limits on what the car has?
i think keep the drive the same lenth fill up at the start, just no use of narrowed rears, mini tubs, relocation of of rear shocks / coil overs all parts for suspenion should HAVE to use the factory location

[Wayne's 88 GT]

I agree completely! In every street car class, you're going to have somebody that is trying to push the envelope with cubing inches and tire size. And once you start bending the rules ever so much, then somebody will always stretch it to the limit! FACT..

How about these rules if you really want to keep the label Real Street Car:
1) Tire must be no larger than 275 and must be DOT Legal.
2) Only one power adder allowed.
3) Only factory production type block allowed for vehicle year.
Example: What ever size motor your car came with from factory, you must run in the class.
4) Car must retain full interior, no gutting, with both seats.
5) Car must have tag and insurance present.

Vehicles must drive approximately XX miles without refilling of gas. Come back, and have eliminations after cool down.

These are just some rules that I think will narrow down the playing field a little. Also show what the REAL street cars are made of. Just my opinion.

Paul

You have some good points......to further define the street car......Tags and insurance present up to date and lets say to make a point......the tag and insurrace would have to be valid for at least 30-60 days....that way it keeps someone from just slapping ins and a tag on their car the week before the race......if it is truly a street car then there shouldn't be a problem with that. The radio is a give or take thing.......I had a 91 hatch that was mostly stock except the exhaust and suspension it had no radio but it was not an all out 5 second 1/8 mile drag car either.

I'd say run two classes....one heads up run what you brung and hope its enough and one index/bracket class just in case there is a large car count that shows up.......that was those of us with slow stock cars can get out there and play as well. I love heads up racing as much as anyone......but I'm smart enough to know that my stock AOD SD GT would be out on the first round unless the person I'm racing either red lit or blew the tires off at the line and didnt recover................Just my .02

[JSTA306]

i think keep the drive the same lenth fill up at the start, just no use of narrowed rears, mini tubs, relocation of of rear shocks / coil overs all parts for suspenion should HAVE to use the factory location

Works for me!!:thumbsup1:

[fast50]

i think keep the drive the same lenth fill up at the start, just no use of narrowed rears, mini tubs, relocation of of rear shocks / coil overs all parts for suspenion should HAVE to use the factory location

I would buy that if the drive was 25 miles of curves and red lights. Something to slow it down so the cars that are not so street have a hard time making it.

[JSTA306]

You have some good points......to further define the street car......Tags and insurance present up to date and lets say to make a point......the tag and insurrace would have to be valid for at least 30-60 days....that way it keeps someone from just slapping ins and a tag on their car the week before the race......if it is truly a street car then there shouldn't be a problem with that. The radio is a give or take thing.......I had a 91 hatch that was mostly stock except the exhaust and suspension it had no radio but it was not an all out 5 second 1/8 mile drag car either.

I'd say run two classes....one heads up run what you brung and hope its enough and one index/bracket class just in case there is a large car count that shows up.......that was those of us with slow stock cars can get out there and play as well. I love heads up racing as much as anyone......but I'm smart enough to know that my stock AOD SD GT would be out on the first round unless the person I'm racing either red lit or blew the tires off at the line and didnt recover................Just my .02

Good ideas!! Index classes would be cool also, especially if you allow bigger engine sizes or such. I think the smaller engines should have a weight break of some kind though. I mean a 302 engine with nitrous compared to a 408 or 460 car with nitrous is like comparing apples to oranges ya know. :p Just my opinion though..

[fast50]

Good ideas!! Index classes would be cool also, especially if you allow bigger engine sizes or such. I think the smaller engines should have a weight break of some kind though. I mean a 302 engine with nitrous compared to a 408 or 460 car with nitrous is like comparing apples to oranges ya know. :p Just my opinion though..

Is a 460 car a street car?

[Wayne's 88 GT]

Is a 460 car a street car?

It could be.......a NA 460 would be just as much a street car as a 351 based stroker with a twin turbo setup or a Ysi and intercooler.........

[bonesgt]

I know of a 557CI STREET CAR, that is just needing a new paint job.

Seems like all of you have some good ideas going on here.
Maybe we need to sit down together one weekend and finalizes the rules and then work on setting up one or two track days.

What do ya'll think??

[Wayne's 88 GT]

I know of a 557CI STREET CAR, that is just needing a new paint job.

Seems like all of you have some good ideas going on here.
Maybe we need to sit down together one weekend and finalizes the rules and then work on setting up one or two track days.

What do ya'll think??
......yeah George's car is a "Street" car........but more of a true street race car than like your Rattle trap or my car LOL

Yeah we need to get together and sort this out.....perhaps we could put together a couple of diff classes and such so everyone can participate on the track................

INCLUDING YOU BONES!!!!!!!

[cammincoupe]

im thinking this may really work as long as we can all agree on this stuff

[fast50]

Let me know.

[bangngearz]

cage and front tires do not make a car faster or less driveable, my car has a 6pt with 3.5's and a drive it like a rental. i think totally stock suspension (bolt ons only), and i like the power adder and n/a class, are a good start. this thing could turn into a nmca type class if we don't get a grip on it. maybe have the first race with some power adder cars and n/a cars (basic inspection of the cars) and see what the turn out/repsonse is, then get it fine tuned to a regulated race in the future. just look how quick the "pump gas drags" and "drag week" got out of hand with high end cars.

[Wayne's 88 GT]

cage and front tires do not make a car faster or less driveable, my car has a 6pt with 3.5's and a drive it like a rental. i think totally stock suspension (bolt ons only), and i like the power adder and n/a class, are a good start. this thing could turn into a nmca type class if we don't get a grip on it. maybe have the first race with some power adder cars and n/a cars (basic inspection of the cars) and see what the turn out/repsonse is, then get it fine tuned to a regulated race in the future. just look how quick the "pump gas drags" and "drag week" got out of hand with high end cars.

True........it really should be just some basic rules since it's really all in the fun right?

[bangngearz]

that's what i am thinking. i mean if the car has hardly no int, 14pt cage, race fuel (or e85) and dot tires with a tag on the back, we can figure out it's a racecar. i think we all know what truly street type cars are, some will be fast and some will be a little faster. on the motor topic, who can look at a windsor and tell if its a 351 or a 448 dart motor? we just start out with a motor class and power adder. if somebody is just killing the group, we boot them out or find another class to put them in. if any of you know of the PTRA, they have a pure motor class called "performance street". the idea in the early stages was to have cars in the low 7's to high 6's. as this season kicks off, they are already pushing 6.50's with dual plane intakes and 26x10 dot tires. i really think we can have a lot of fun with some good trash talking and call outs from race to race. it will keep cars coming back for the title each race, sorta like the king of the street races out there.

[Silver91Hatch]

I think it should go like this for one class we can make 3-4 different classes of "street cars"
1. All factory installed lighting needs to work(ie. head light, tail lights, turns, hazards, etc)
2. One power adder MAX, no ifs and or buts
3. No coilovers (fronts are debatable)
4. No aftermarket blocks
5. 302 based engines only
6. Some sort of weight limit
7. No slicks or ET Streets, drag radials ok
8. Full interior, not gutted cars
9. No lexan windows
10. All factory operating windows must work
We can go from there or change stuff as necessary

[cammincoupe]

I think it should go like this for one class we can make 3-4 different classes of "street cars"
1. All factory installed lighting needs to work(ie. head light, tail lights, turns, hazards, etc)
2. One power adder MAX, no ifs and or buts
3. No coilovers (fronts are debatable)
4. No aftermarket blocks
5. 302 based engines only
6. Some sort of weight limit
7. No slicks or ET Streets, drag radials ok
8. Full interior, not gutted cars
9. No lexan windows
10. All factory operating windows must work
We can go from there or change stuff as necessary
great class rite there just change the tire it should be any dot approved tire just limit the size , allso add in there no launch divices or nething of that sort.

[bangngearz]

dot tires, no electronics, we might have a race.

[capriracer86]

Should do it like hot rod!!! They do fastest street car shoot out! Fastest 3 run average wins!!! If the car is legal to drive on the street and makes it threw the 30 or more mile drive and can make 3 back to back passes and survive than that would be a street car!!!

[Stable]

All of this is good, but just remember that someone will have to be the bad guy and do tech....and if you use weight, you need scales. At the last track day that we did, we just had 3 classes....regular non drag radial tire, DOT tires, and drag slick. Very easy to tech to have fun.

[Silver91Hatch]

If you were closer I would do tech, not a problem for me to be the bad guy and even not race, I'm not fast. I also think we should get bones or someone else to make a thread and get a list of rules we all agree on and get a list going. I think we should have a Auto Class and a Stick Class. I don't think we should limit it to 4 speed auto because a lot of use auto guys run a C4 or a glide. BUT!!! We might have a "all Ford" kinda thing, AOD, 4R70W or a C4, NO GLIDES!!!!!!

[capriracer86]

Thats all fine and dandy but its getting away from it being the fastest street car.... Run what ya brong and hope u brought enough! Lol just my opinion!!

[Wayne's 88 GT]

All of this is good, but just remember that someone will have to be the bad guy and do tech....and if you use weight, you need scales. At the last track day that we did, we just had 3 classes....regular non drag radial tire, DOT tires, and drag slick. Very easy to tech to have fun.

That was a very fun event.............and tech was easy as well!!

I don't think we need to worry about weight. If it's going to be a heads up class for Fastest Street Car........to keep it simple it should be.........
No backhalf or mini tubs
Stock suspension in factory location
275 tire dot approved
must have all lights, wipers and horn operational
must be licensed and insured for at least30 days prior to event
One power adder only
and you could add a cruise prior to event to make sure of "streetness"
AND to make it more interesting
No Times Posted!!

[capriracer86]

Yup that sounds good!!! Thats much simplier!!!

[Bizarro]

:deal: MARK!... YOU BETTER HURRY UP AN GET THAT DYNO UP AN RUNNING!....we got work to do!!!! :jerkit:
hhmmmm... wait a min. would mine pass as a street car bones?
I THINK IT IS! i mean its nothing radical!

[fast50]

I guess when I read the title fastest street car to me that was daily driver cars. If thats not what we are talking about than I guess I just interpreted it different. If everyone just wants a run what you got than I am fine with that. :patriot:

[Bizarro]

YEA, we go back an forth ALL DAY on WHATS street an whats not.... there REALLY does need to be some kind of meeting where people iron out what goes an what stays in the event!
or else we'll do this for years an never get anywhere!

Id say we nominate 3 people to hammer out the RULES an THEY HAVE TO BE THE TECHS TOO!
if you dont pass tech then no exception YOUR OUT!

[fast50]

I agree, I will go along with what ever everybody decides. I just want to race!!!!

[Silver91Hatch]

You know what screw the stick/auto class. How about the rules above with a power adder class or a n/a class.

[Bizarro]

VOTE FOR 3 TECH's!

I say Bones, Mark, an ????? :yes1:

[fast50]

You know what screw the stick/auto class. How about the rules above with a power adder class or a n/a class.

I would do time brackets.

[Wayne's 88 GT]

Yeah we all could go back and forth over what the rules should be.......

But there is a difference between "Fastest Street Car" and "Fastest Daily Driver"........the "Fastest Street Car" class could be more directed to the power adder cars and "Fastest Daily Driver" could be more the naturally aspirated cars.........or the street cars rules be not as defined as the daily drivers. I think a meeting is in store to get it finalized

[Stable]

Why me?:angry: I might want to play...if the classes get a little out of hand:yes1:

I can make the 30 mile cruise and three runs on a tank...all though it will cost something like 150.00 in fuel.....haha

[Wayne's 88 GT]

I would do time brackets.

X2........esp since my car is 99.99998% Factory Stock!

[fast50]

Yeah we all could go back and forth over what the rules should be.......

But there is a difference between "Fastest Street Car" and "Fastest Daily Driver"........the "Fastest Street Car" class could be more directed to the power adder cars and "Fastest Daily Driver" could be more the naturally aspirated cars.........or the street cars rules be not as defined as the daily drivers. I think a meeting is in store to get it finalized

My car has a power adder and it is very daily driver. My brother inlaw's car is a 302 nitrous car that is dam quick and it is driven about 20,000 miles a year.
I don't think you would want to break them up that way.

[Bizarro]

Why me?:angry: I might want to play...if the classes get a little out of hand:yes1:

I can make the 30 mile cruise and three runs on a tank...all though it will cost something like 150.00 in fuel.....haha

hey no one said you couldnt RUN... :thumbsup1:

[Silver91Hatch]

How about this, who DRIVES there car to Mustang Week from the farthest wins. I got 4 hours...

[bangngearz]

4 pages and still going. sounds like we got some good ideas that need to be finalized to get this thing going. questions: what track? date? etc, etc.

[fast50]

My brother inlaw. 6 hours last year.

[cammincoupe]

i think we post all the rules that have been stated on and let everybody vote on them for a week or so and then take the rules with most votes and use them just make the dot tire , no launch controls and factory suspenion part location and no mini tubs and back halfs and call it done:thumbsup1:

[Silver91Hatch]

No lexan, working lights, windows, factory options, etc.

[93fakesnake]

There are some great ideas here but this is what I think. You put to many rules on this it will be very hard to do it. Ya'll are saying the Fastest Street Car. I think the rules should be simple and easy to go with. You wont be able to please everyone but here is what I would like to see. I' ve been to the King Of The Street, and Fastest Street Car Challange and here is some rules I would like to see.

BODY RULES:
Factory Body panels . Aftermarket body kits are permitted. Only permitted lightweight components are hood. Hood is required, may be made of lightweight material. Hood scoops permitted. Any rear wing permitted.
Must have full interior with two seats door panels and dash.

POWER ADDERS & POWERTRAIN
All 4-cylinder, 6-cylinder, small block and big block engine types with 1 power adder only. Any manual or automatic transmission is permitted. Any rear end is permitted. Exhaust system with mufflers are required.

CHASSIS & SUSPENSION
CHASSIS/FRAME: Stock-type chassis, no “back-half-type” vehicles allowed. Stock firewall & stock front frame rails must be in stock location and unmodified. Full tube-type chassis vehicles prohibited.

FRONT SUSPENSION: Stock-type front suspension, or stock bolt-in-type replacement front suspension required. Tubular front suspension components permitted. Coil over shocks/struts are permitted.

REAR SUSPENSION: Aftermarket rear suspension permitted of any design. Coil over shocks & springs permitted and may be relocated. Wheelie bars are prohibited.

STREET EQUIPMENT
In order to compete, all vehicles and/or drivers are required the following:
Valid driver’s license
Valid vehicle registration
Valid license plate(s). Dealer/Temp plates prohibited.
Valid insurance “ID” card. Faxes and/or letters from insurance companies and/or brokers not acceptable.
Valid state inspection sticker (if required by state vehicle is registered).
All windows must roll up and down and no Lexan Windows


During the tech-in process, vehicle must have operational street equipment, including headlights, taillights, brake lights, turn signals, and horn.

TIRES: FRONT & REAR
DOT tires and DOT Drag Radials are allowed. Racing slicks prohibited.

30-MILE CRUISE
There will be a 30 mile supervised cruise on highway and city streets prior to competition, limited to those vehicles that have passed tech inspection. A escort will supervise the cruise in accordance with local laws and ordinances. Each competitor and crew will be on their own reconnaissance during the escort and cruise and bear the full responsibility of their actions as they would on city streets. Please be safe and follow all traffic laws during the cruise.

SUPPORT VEHICLES
Support vehicles (i.e., tow vehicles, crew, etc.) are permitted optionally on the road tour, but must trail behind the True Street participants, and the escort, at all times. All support vehicles are on their own reconnaissance and must obey all applicable local safety and traffic laws.

DISQUALIFICATION/COMPLETION
Cruise is mandatory in the time allotted for competition. Any vehicle unable to complete the road tour under its on power, within the allotted time, will be disqualified from racing. Any vehicle that falls behind the trailing escort will be disqualified.

COOLDOWN PERIOD/RETURN PROCEDURES
After the vehicles return from the road tour, they will return directly to the designated staging lanes for the cool-down period. They may not change tires. The cool-down period will typically last between 15 and 45 minutes. During this cool down period only, entrants may adjust tire pressure (add or remove tire pressure), install fresh nitrous bottles, install ice in their intercooler, (only if located in trunk, rear hatch or rear seat area). A strict CLOSED HOOD policy will be in effect until a competitor has completed his or her three back to back passes. No re-fueling allowed once car leaves on cruise. Engines must remain turned off during entire cool-down period. External cooling of engine by any means (cold water, outdoor fans, etc.) prohibited. Any engine changes, repairs, or adjustments (changing rocker arms, carburetor adjustments, etc.) prohibited. Changing of tires prohibited.

RACE FORMAT
When called to “load up” in the staging lanes, all competitors must report to their cars and prepare to make three back-to-back passes. All hoods and deck lids must remain secured, as they must remain closed until completion of all three passes. Vehicles with air-to-water intercoolers may not add ice to intercooler tank between back-to-back passes, even if intercooler tank is located in interior of vehicle.

FINAL STANDINGS
After all three passes are completed, each racer’s ET’s will be added together and divided by 3. The average of these three passes will be computed. If the vehicle doesnt make it through staging and the actual run that run will not count..

CREW MEMBERS
Crew members are not permitted around participating vehicles, in the staging lanes, or in the burnout area, between rounds of competition.

BACK-to BACK PASSES
Tire pressure may be checked in the staging lanes, or between rounds, and may be lowered. Air may not be added to tires any time during the back-to-back passes. Vehicles are required to make three full passes in order to be included in the final average ET tally. All vehicles must run three passes in the same order as the first pass, any attempt to gain additional cool down time between rounds will result in disqualification. Any vehicle unable to start under its own power will be disqualified. During, and in between, the back to back passes, no changes may be made to vehicle other than lowering air pressure in tires. Vehicles with air-to-water intercoolers may not add ice to intercooler tank between back-to-back passes, even if intercooler tank is located in interior of vehicle. No laptops in vehicle permitted at any time once the first of the three back-to-back passes is initiated.

WEIGHT BREAKS
There is no minimum weight.

[fast50]

Could you be more specific? :lol1:

[93fakesnake]

LOL

[fast50]

The rules work for me! The biggest problem I had with Bristol True Street was not everyone went on the oval so they drove a easier route since they got to skip that part. Make part of the 30 miles stop and go!

[cammincoupe]

says nothing about delay boxes or any kind of launch controlls ???

[93fakesnake]

They will all have to complete the cruise and no delay boxes or launch controls

[Stable]

is this event going to be for fun or competion?....There is a difference...For competion, the rules need to be very accurate and wide ranging....for fun, just a few to break up the speed of the cars....

[XSR]

You really need to break it down to et range. I know of alot of "street cars" that can bust off 5sec 1/8th mile times. So you really need to determine what works the best for the class. If it were me setting it up, I would have a couple of class's. First would be a bolt on class, or 5.0 based class. Meaning nothing over a 302 block(no 351's, no BBF's). You could allow single power adders, but then you open the class back up. I mean a 347 with h/c/i and a turbo can easily run 5's also. You could make everyone make a cruise, pass tech, and then seperate them into their class's. Easiest would be a NA, Nitrous, and Forced Induction. Then put what you want for the body, and interior. Basically a car that has the comfort/dependability to drive everyday. As ya'll already know, you'll never make everyone happy, and everyones opinion is something different.

[fast50]

I agree just break it into ET's don't worry about power adders or engine size. Then if you want to you can make a section that is just for daily drivers and have two or three people set some pretty hard core rules (again I wouldnt worry about engine size or horsepower) and have them decide which cars are legal for that class. I would just be real clear what the rules are and make them something you can decide on quickly (example: no weight because that would require scales).

Regardless of what is decided I think everyone will have fun!

[Bizarro]

Regardless of what is decided I think everyone will have fun!


Honestly i think thats more important than anything... jus a big a$$ get together where we can all race & have fun... if it comes down to a full out competition then thats cool, i'll be more than happy to pull in the pits an jus take pics!
But more than likely i'll be there jus to watch it all go down! it should be a pretty good turnout judging by the response JUST from this site.... jus think if we linked this thread to ALL the surrounding area sites.... the GM guys could make it pretty interesting "minus the ego's".:taunt:

[Wayne's 88 GT]

I agree just break it into ET's don't worry about power adders or engine size.
Regardless of what is decided I think everyone will have fun!

This really should be about fun and bragging rights......if everyone wanted a full on money on the line competition there are enough racing series and events to fulfill that.

Perhaps we should break the et's down to where the slower cars aren't lumped together with your low 6 second 1/8th mile cars. To be honest the 3 classes we had at Shadyside was pretty cool......but we did do brackets.
Only rules were all cars on street tires in one class, drag radials all in another and slicks all together. It really could be a cool event, but I think the more rules you put out there is going to take some of the fun out.
I'm cool with whatever is decided.......

[1bad88vert]

That sounds awesome.

[1bad88vert]

Bonz and I were talking and maybe we could have North Kakalak vs. South Kakalak.

[jboren93]

:thumbsup1:im down for the race event, sounds like its coming together, dont let this idea slide

[bangngearz]

north / south sounds good.

[Wayne's 88 GT]

North vs South is good for me...........but where to have it?

[bangngearz]

i'm not sure what it costs to rent a track. i heard elgin is pretty easy to get, but its not the best track in the world. anywhere is good, lets get it on before its a 100+ degrees outside. maybe we could hit darlington one saturday and just have the race during the tnt, without renting at all.