engine compartment bothers me

[zupaspunk]

I was wondering how I see alot of other people engine compartments looking so **** clean.. I have wires running everywhere.. oem plugs from smog pump delete ect ect. Just have a **** ton of plugs I want to just cut out from the oem wiring harness and try to clean it up, but have been afraid not knowing if I might need them again. I know alot of people run the wiring through the fender wells.. is that a terribly hard job to do solo, by someone not so electrically savy? Can I get rid of all those loose ends of plugs I don't use any more, or should I just try to hide them? It's to the point I really don't want to show anyone what's under the hood cause the wiring is sloppy and unorganized.

[nastynotchback1]

If you are great with electrical i don't suggest doing it.there are some wires that need to be cut and reconnected and some lengthened.all need to be soldiered back together.you can move some just by rerouting and reconnecting.

[1sxyfox]

the fendwell running isn't that hard i have a few friends that have done it if you want i can get you a link to a really good step by step process and you can go from there.

[Nova]

the fendwell running isn't that hard i have a few friends that have done it if you want i can get you a link to a really good step by step process and you can go from there.

ide like this link

try picking up a ford EVTM book. it will tell what every wire is where every wire goes. they are OEM books for dealer techs and are year specific. they run about $25 on ebay and they are a great tool to have for wiring.

[zupaspunk]

yea I have a chitlins for it, haven't checked out in dept the wiring portion of the book it, yea man please drop me a link for wiring it via the fenderwell.

[NOTCHED]

Go to ALMOST STOCK's profile (or see any post he's made), as he's got a link to his page, and by FAR it's one of the cleanest you'll find anywhere!

You'll get some detailed pics, how to's, etc that should help...if nuthin' else it will make you droooooooooool :) You could fire off a PM to him with any specific question...I know he's been a real help to me. He's in California, so you've got the time difference, and the fact that he's not real active here due to him not living in "our area", it might not be an immediate response you get from him.

[zupaspunk]

k gonna check it out, want to start this weekend on it after I fix the pinion seal that i just notice is starting to go..

[1sxyfox]

here i'll just post it....


Hiding the main under-hood wiring harnesses on a ’87-93 Fox Mustang

There are several main wiring harnesses on the ’87-93 Mustangs under the hood that can be moved & hidden inside the fenders. On the drivers side there is a factory wiring harness that goes over the strut tower, between the strut mount plate and the fender. On the same side there is another harness that routes along inner structure at the base of the strut tower. There are battery cables and air-bag sensor wires that are below the battery tray. All of these converge at the fender mounted solenoid. On the passenger side there is one main harness that goes over the strut tower, between the strut mount plate and the fender. There are also air bag sensor harnesses under the factory air box area, or where the factory air box would be. These harnesses meet under the MAF (mass air flow) meter.

There are several different ways to hide all or part of these harnesses. I chose to remove both inner & outer fenders for this because I was replacing both fenders & bumper cover due to an accident. This can be done without removing the fenders. If you choose not to remove the fenders, I recommend having an assistant and removing the front wheels/tires.

***Depending on factory tolerances wires may need to be lengthened and/or the black tape-like wrapping peeled away to allow the wiring to move/free up. I DID NOT HAVE TO CUT OR SPLICE ANY WIRING. ***

Before you start make notes as to where everything plugs into, especially the solenoid. There is a HOT and a SWITCH side to the solenoid and reversing the connections will not be good. I suggest completing one side then moving to the next.

DRIVERS SIDE
Disconnect the battery and remove it and the battery tray. Remove left fender and plastic inner fender (splash shield) OR you can just remove the inner fender (splash shield). Disconnect all wiring at the solenoid, coil, master cylinder, air conditioning connection on inner structure, and the air bag sensor harnesses under the windshield washer solenoid. Disconnect the windshield washer hose, electrical connector, and remove the reservoir. Unfasten the wiring harness from the plastic anchors that attach them to the car. Try not to break them because you can reuse some later. Inspect all wiring for any damages. It is easier to repair them now than once they are inside the fender. Locate the 2 large holes in the inner structure. One is on the back side of the strut tower. The other is just to the right of that and is an oval-this is where the washer fluid hose, vacuum line and brake lines go through. ALL CONNECTORS WILL FIT THROUGH THE HOLES WITHOUT CUTTING OR REMOVING THE WIRING FROM THE CONNECTOR. Route the wire loom with the large oval connector through the larger oval hole first. TAKE YOUR TIME. Put each connector through individually pulling the wiring though at the same time. I used the smaller hole for the other harness, but some only use the larger oval one. Once both harnesses are though the holes pull all excess slack through to the inside of the inner structure.


***Depending on your brake set-up you may not use the master cylinder pigtail. If you still need it you can peel back the black tape-like wrapping to free up enough wiring to go back through the hole and connect the master cylinder. As we all know every Mustang is different and some may need to cut and splice enough wiring to be able to reach the master cylinder*** Re-inspect the wiring to make sure nothing was damaged. Pull the harnesses along the bottom of the top inner structure (this would be directly under the lip that the fenders bolt to). Disconnect the small battery cable ground wire from the core support. Pull the air bag sensor harness and negative battery cable out from the front, you may need to remove the headlight, side marker and turn signal lamp to gain access. Route the air bag sensor wiring & battery cable around the outside of the inner structure. Keep them down low by the horns to make sure the windshield washer reservoir can be bolted back on.
Reattach battery cable ground wire to core support-you should be able to use the same hole it was originally in or you can create a new one out of sight. [At this time you can relocate the coil and solenoid to the inside of the fender area if you want. You can also route the starter and ground cables and A/C wiring UNDER the frame by the stabilizer bar to frame mount.] Reconnect both wiring harnesses to each other and to their proper components using the large round hole in the inner structure by the solenoid, where the washer fluid reservoir opening comes into the engine bay, to route the wiring pigtails. Don’t worry if you didn’t relocate the coil & solenoid, they will still all reach there respective components. Electrical tape or protect any exposed wiring or anything that might rub against it. Secure all wiring harnesses and cables. Be sure to provide adequate clearance for the plastic inner fender (splash shield) to fit properly. You can drill holes, use zip ties, whatever you can think of to secure the wiring from movement. Remount the windshield washer reservoir. Use reservoir mounting screw as ground for the air bag wiring ground wire. Reinstall battery tray and battery. Check all connections. Start vehicle to make sure everything is working correctly. Reinstall fender, lights and any other part removed.
Wiring inside Left inner fender finished:


PASSENGER SIDE
Disconnect battery. Remove right fender and plastic inner fender OR you can remove just the plastic inner fender. [To remove fender first remove antennae mast, antennae base trim cover and the 4 attaching screws. Unplug antennae cable from rear of radio and pull cable out from behind dash, glove box, all the way to the right kick panel and coil freely in floor. Unbolt the fender and tilt outward. Pull the antennae cable out from the outside of the car. Now you can pull fender away.] Remove the factory air cleaner assembly if you still have one. Now would be a good time to replace the factory air cleaner with a CAI (cold air induction) kit, like the ones offered by Morroso, BBK, KNN, JLT and MAC just to name a few. Disconnect the purge/vapor return line from the valve on top of the emissions canister, located in front of the right stabilizer bar to frame mount. BE CAREFULL NOT TO DAMAGE ANY VACUUM LINES. Pull the vapor line back out of the strut tower so it is outside of the engine bay. Disconnect main wiring harness from the air bag sensor harness, MAF, A/C relay and purge valve. Remove plastic retaining clips. Check wiring for any damage and repair if needed. Pull the main harness to the rear of the strut tower and route through the hole at the rear of the strut tower. Pass the MAF connector through first then each other connector while pulling the wiring through at the same time. TAKE YOUR TIME. MAKE SURE NOT TO DAMAGE THE VACUUM LINES IN THE CORNER. After the harness is through the hole pull all excess slack through also. I chose to route the MAF and A/C relay wiring back into the engine bay through the large round hole in front of the strut tower. Some CAI systems put the MAF sensor in the fender and you may not want you’re A/C relay in the engine bay. You can easily mount it out in the fender.


Pull the air bag wiring harness out through the front of core support. You may have to remove the headlight, side marker and turn signal lamp.
Reconnect all wiring harnesses together. Evap purge solenoid wiring harness will be routed UNDER the frame structure along with the vapor line. Secure all wiring making sure the inner fender will have proper fitment. Reconnect battery and start the car to make sure everything works. Re-install the headlights, side markers, turn signal lamps, fenders, and air cleaner.
Wiring inside Right fender finished:

[BDASPNY]

paul aka almost stock is the best guy to ask questions from. he is always extremely helpful. :thumbsup1:


heres the link to his site.


http://www.leemotorsports.com/almoststock/

[zupaspunk]

Thanks for all the advise I'm sure between 1sxyfox's post and all the info I read off almost stock's page I should be able to do it without much trouble, and yea I did google at almost stock's engine bay. freakin insanely nice.

[1sxyfox]

holly jebus that i super clean....... where is he located at?

[zupaspunk]

Cali according to NOTCHED, would love to see that ride in person tho

[1sxyfox]

Cali according to NOTCHED, would love to see that ride in person tho

lol ya that kinda what i was gettin at.... plus i wouldn't mind payin him to make all my wires go away that way i wouldn't have to do it :yes1:

[zupaspunk]

haha yea no doubt about that. not looking forward to trying it myself. i saw a guy selling his car had mentioned he paid over $1300 just to have his engine compartment look like almost stocks.. so yea gonna do it myself

[1sxyfox]

haha yea no doubt about that. not looking forward to trying it myself. i saw a guy selling his car had mentioned he paid over $1300 just to have his engine compartment look like almost stocks.. so yea gonna do it myself

holly **** $1300 to hide wires im in the wrong **** line of work.**** do like 6 jobs of those and make more than the marines pay us all year :lol1:

[BDASPNY]

almost stock is a great guy. he can/will help you in anyway he can. he's had the car since it was brand new and did all the polishing and wire hiding himself. his car is top notch:drool: for sure. i'm trying to get him out here for mustang week. with the way the economy is though it prob won't happen.:sad1:

[ALMOST STOCK]

Thanks to everyone for the great complements on my engine bay and the car.
As NOTCHED and BDASPNY both have said I'll be more than willing to help in any way I can.
As I told many people that I've help over the years hiding wires is only as hard as "you " want to make. I've actually done it twice, the first time I put all the wires and vacuum lines under the pinch weld. My second time I pull all the wires and vacuum lines inside which really cleanup the engine bay I thought. I've also rerouted my brake lines so that they're not that visible.

[zupaspunk]

Lol you aren't lying you almost have to be married with a wife that'll work so you can get decent dependant pay/bah ahhaha to make it in the corps

[1sxyfox]

Thanks to everyone for the great complements on my engine bay and the car.
As NOTCHED and BDASPNY both have said I'll be more than willing to help in any way I can.
As I told many people that I've help over the years hiding wires is only as hard as "you " want to make. I've actually done it twice, the first time I put all the wires and vacuum lines under the pinch weld. My second time I pull all the wires and vacuum lines inside which really cleanup the engine bay I thought. I've also rerouted my brake lines so that they're not that visible.


lol will you fly out and do mine for me that would be a big help :lol1: and pete your tellin me, i made the mistake of tellin my wife she didn't have to work and she could stay home with our daughter lol what was i thinkin :angry: but i guess i wouldn't have it any other way, dinner is on the table when i get home and laundry is always done so can't really complain i guess.

[ALMOST STOCK]

holly jebus that i super clean....... where is he located at?
Thank you.
I live in what I call Central Calif, 10 miles East for Monterey Bay and
40 Miles South of the Silicon Valley.

lol ya that kinda what i was gettin at.... plus i wouldn't mind payin him to make all my wires go away that way i wouldn't have to do it
It my cost you more than $1300 to hide your wire by the time you pay for the flight and a couple of meals if you want me to go there and hide your wires for you. :lol1:

lol will you fly out and do mine for me that would be a big help
You pay for the flight and some grub and I'll be there to do it for you.Or you could spend about 5 hrs of your time doing the drivers side and 2 hrs of doing the passengerside and save yourself the plane flight and food :yes1:

The only wires I had to cut and splice were the 2 wires to the A/C compressor and the 2 wires to the over flow bottle, other than that I didn't cut or splice another wire.

[1sxyfox]

lol you can ask my wife, if i start on something and it pisses me off then stuff normally goes bad from there, so it may be worth the plane ticket and the food, just to make sure i dont burn my car down lol.

[zupaspunk]

haha I'll get the grub, you buy the ticket, my car needs to get done too and I have a short temper.

[nyfreakinrican7]

This looks like an interesting project to tackle when it get warmer out.

[JUSTA5O]

We'll just fly you out and have a rewire party with 4 or 5 cars.