Mass Air Meter ?

[puttputt]

I had a C&L mass air meter on my car calibrated for 24# injectors and the car would idle rough and I did not have good throttle response so I changed it out for my stock mass air meter and it runs perfect. Whats up with that? Also is it going to hurt anything to run my stock mass air meter? I have a a9l computer if that makes any difference. Thanks in advance for your help.:thumbsup1:

[Notch93]

C&L are garbage, IMO. You running 24's correct? I was going to send back a meter to Pro-M (that was for 19's), talked to Pro-M, they told me they wouldn't recalibrate it for 24's, because they were the same meters (calibration).

[Badass1993]

yeah I am not liking my C&L much any more.....If she is running rough,I'd check the sample tube,sounds like the wrong one in there

[Silver91Hatch]

Pro-M FTW.
C&L runs good with a tune, chip or a TwEECEer.

[puttputt]

I had a 1993 Cobra computer with a superchips chip and the car ran like crap so I put the stock computer back in it. Also, the mass air tube has a purple mark on the back of it so does that symbolize it is the 24# injector tube. Also, is the angled part of the tube suppose to face the front of the car or the rear of the car. Thanks for your help so far.

[Silver91Hatch]

Well my buddies 95 ran decent with a 76mm C&L, I built a base tune with Inj slopes, MAF transfer, etc and it turns up A LOT freeier... Burnt it to a Moates chip and it is all good now.

[Notch93]

The blue (could look like purple) is for 24lb injectors, and I'm 99% sure the angled part is supposed to be facing the front of the car.

[Stable]

All aftermarket Mass air's are a shot in the dark.....the only way to be right is to have the Mass air curve redone in the computer...I am not a big fan of going over a 65 MM TB or Mass air......A Stock 302 @ 6000 RPM needs 525 cfm of air...this is @ a engine efficiency of 100%( which no stock or bolt on mustang will do)...The stock TB of 60 mm flows 495 cfm and a 65 mm flows 664 cfm. On of the most common mistakes is reducing the air speed through the motor...slow moving air does not like to stay mixed with fuel and this will cause the O2's to read funky at times.....If you tune a motor with a chip you can account for these problems, but it is a rare thing when a after market bolt on TB or MA works right.

[puttputt]

O.k. so what do I need to do to fix this problem. Can I just use my factory piece or do I need to buy a different meter.

[Stable]

The standard answer is....it depends on what you are wanting for the motor...The only reason some MA work better is the Transfer function in them is better than some, the brand has noting to do with how they work...A MA might run like crap on one car, and great on the next...Do you need the 24lb injectors?

Go here to check http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx

at the bottom of the page it will lead you through what to do...Just remember that it is talking in Crank HP and not Rear wheel HP

[puttputt]

No,I don't need the 24# injectors. I am not making that much horse power. I just had them so I put them in. So, do you think I just need to put the 19# injectors back in then.

[Stable]

You can make more power on the 24's, but the drivability is better with the 19lb's. The car will be more happy all the way around with the 19's, and the MA will be more accurate with them and the staock MA.....

[puttputt]

Thanks for everyones help.:thumbsup1: