heater core headache [Archive] - SoutheasternFoxBodies.com Forums

BadMoFo

10-25-2008, 01:21 PM

BadMoFo

10-25-2008, 03:55 PM

question number 2:

how do you disconnect the speedo cable? much less get to it? I have the guages loose but it wont pull away from the dash far enough to get your hand on anything on the back side.

BadMoFo

10-25-2008, 04:55 PM

ok anwser to question 2 is smash the fudge out of your hand and use pliers to press tabs, but now how to reinstall when it comes time?

ALMOST STOCK

10-25-2008, 06:36 PM

well I told you I would have a thread:p

so check the ac and its not charged so I get ready to disconect the line but the line runs under the condenser line? so the tool wont fit on the line with out removing the condenser line?

trust me many more questions to come, not looking good if all I have gotten done so far is disconnect the battery. never fails my projects always turn out to be way bigger then they should be.:sad1:

The disconnect tool will work on the condenser line you just need to put the disconnect tool on the other side of the line.
The fitting is backwards I guess is what I'm trying to say.

ALMOST STOCK

10-25-2008, 06:42 PM

ok anwser to question 2 is smash the fudge out of your hand and use pliers to press tabs, but now how to reinstall when it comes time?

The speedo cable just slips over back on the speedo on the back of the gage cluster , so just push it on until you fell it click into place.

To bad I didn't catch your earlier post before you smashed your had.

This is all you need to do to release the speedo cable from the back of the gage cluster.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/almoststock/Grooverelease.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/almoststock/NUBRelease.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/almoststock/Heldintoplace.jpg

BadMoFo

10-25-2008, 06:48 PM

still would have smashed my hand as the guages didnt pull far enough away from the dash to easily push that.

the condinser line is so close to the ac line that the tool will not fit between the 2. the instructions I am using didnt show it being taken off but then when you look at the pics later in the article you see it disconnected. bastards.

as for today I ran out of light so thats it for me today. will go at it early tomarrow. man I need a garage. and more tools lol.

but I do have the dash pretty much all out and ready to take the case off the heater core once I do the stuff under the hood. also it says there are multiple bolts at the bottom of the case I have to take off? I couldnt see but one, but it was also getting dark.

ALMOST STOCK

10-25-2008, 07:04 PM

Ive changed my heater core 3 times and the only bolts that you need to deal with in the engine bay are these 3 from what I remember.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/almoststock/2Nuts1screw.jpg

It does seem like there might be 1 or 2 small 1/4 hex head screws holding the cover on though.

BadMoFo

10-25-2008, 07:24 PM

ok but what about the line to the condenser (i guess thats what it is) that is bolted to the firewall right above the ac line?

here is a good pic of it with the ac line connected and the line above it (black bent line) is disconnected. that is the line that is blocking me from putting the tool on the ac line.

ALMOST STOCK

10-25-2008, 07:50 PM

There is no pic.

Are you talking about the A/C Accumlator ?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/almoststock/BehindDrier.jpg

BadMoFo

10-25-2008, 07:52 PM

my bad, didnt add the link but yes that black thing. sorry unless I am told what it is havent learned it yet lol.

funny how I can build stuff for military aircraft, ejection seats, bombs, rocks and other explosive items but need help with a car lol.

BadMoFo

10-25-2008, 07:53 PM

oh and your pics are helping a ton. thanks

ALMOST STOCK

10-25-2008, 08:02 PM

This is the one I'm saying you need to do from the firewall toward you.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/almoststock/Backwards.jpg

I'm assuming you're using something like this to release the spring lock (Garter Spring ) with?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/almoststock/MVC-011F.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/almoststock/Disconnecttool.jpg

ALMOST STOCK

10-25-2008, 08:04 PM

Believe me; I'm just trying to help if I can.

BadMoFo

10-25-2008, 08:20 PM

your helping a ton!

and yes thats the line I am trying to get to but the ac collector line is so close to it I cant get the tool (pictured in the wrapper, set of four) on it.

also the other bolt I am looking for at the bottom of the heater core case is in the interior.

ALMOST STOCK

10-25-2008, 08:31 PM

DBL post

ALMOST STOCK

10-25-2008, 08:35 PM

I had some what the same problem with that disconnect tool and the reason I bought the other kind.
Have you tried pushing the foam back toward the heater box and then put the disconnect on the opposite side of the arrow in the pics I posted so that you have more room to work in?

Yes it's in the interior.
Pull back your carpet and pad and look at the very bottom of the heater box and you'll see the head of that screw I was talking about

BadMoFo

10-25-2008, 08:42 PM

mine doesnt have that foam.

BadMoFo

10-25-2008, 08:43 PM

here is the link to the photo with the ac accum line disconnected.

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/mump_0606_ford_mustang_heater_core_replacement/photo_34.html

ALMOST STOCK

10-25-2008, 09:12 PM

Excuse my ignorance I know I'm missing something here.

So you've taken the 2 nuts that hold the Accumulator to the firewall off, and you've taken the large nut on the accumulator off and pulled the black pie out thus giving you more room to get the spring release tool and you still can get the spring release tool behind the cage of the spring?

ALMOST STOCK

10-25-2008, 09:16 PM

I guess I'm at a loss because the caption in that article says
Once the heater core is installed and the evaporator case is back in position, the A/C lines are reconnected in preparation for recharging the system. The lower line presses and snaps back into place onto the fitting as shown.

BadMoFo

10-25-2008, 09:18 PM

no. have done none of that. the article I was reading to do this showed the ac line being removed prior to removing any other nuts under the hood. which is probably why I cant get the tool on cause the have it out of order, right? houston I think we found the problem.

BadMoFo

10-25-2008, 09:19 PM

oh I was just using that pic as a reference to what I was looking at. not to that step yet.

ALMOST STOCK

10-25-2008, 09:29 PM

ALMOST STOCK

10-25-2008, 09:30 PM

oh I was just using that pic as a reference to what I was looking at. not to that step yet.

Now it makes since.

BadMoFo

10-25-2008, 09:35 PM

thanks a bunch. feel free to offer any other help. figure when it gets lite out will be at the pount of taking the case off to expose the heater core. anything odd I should know about there?

ALMOST STOCK

10-25-2008, 09:48 PM

If you've already remove the dash then you've seen the couple of small bolts at the braces that hold the heater box into place other than that it's pretty much a straight forward project.

The only problem I can foresee is the same problem that most ppl have and that is remembering where all the different vacuum lines go, but if you took notes or pics your good to go, if not I've got plenty of that also ;)

ALMOST STOCK

10-25-2008, 09:54 PM

Just so that there aren't any surprises when you pull the heater box

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/almoststock/ExplodedViewofHC.jpg

BadMoFo

10-26-2008, 10:16 AM

can I just pour gasoline on this thing and burn it? ok got the stuff under the hood off except the ac line. it wont budge and inch. is this job possible for a horrible mech to do with ac line attached?

also where is the 4th screw that holds evap lid on? I got the 2 in the front that you can see and the one closest to stearing wheel but cant see the fourth?

anyone want to roadtrip? lol. might have to call work and say I;m not going to be in tomarrow. man I need more tools.

BadMoFo

10-26-2008, 10:27 AM

ok located the last stupid screw, how the *&%$ do you get that out? I cant pull the case far enough out from under the dash to gain access to it. is this normal? or is it because I dont have the ac line unhooked?

BadMoFo

10-26-2008, 10:35 AM

ALMOST STOCK

10-26-2008, 12:20 PM

ALMOST STOCK

10-26-2008, 12:45 PM

ok what size tool do I need to remove ac line? one side of the line is 5/8 the other in 1/2? the larger size line is comming out of the firewall the smaller is the actual line comming from the ac unit.

off to sears to buy more tools, maybe they will have a auto mech I can buy there to lol.

It's the Female end from the firewall side

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/almoststock/Female.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/almoststock/Release.jpg

BadMoFo

10-26-2008, 01:15 PM

Where is the screw located, heater box, duct assembly or ??

the screw is on the heater core cover. one closest to the firewall on passenger side. when I look at these pics the whole assembly looks to be pulled at least 6 inches away from the firewall but mine barely moves 2 inches.

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/mump_0606_ford_mustang_heater_core_replacement/photo_26.html

see how the rusted part of the bracket is no where near the dash? mine wont move more then 2 in at best.

BadMoFo

10-26-2008, 01:16 PM

It's the Female end from the firewall side

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/almoststock/Female.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/almoststock/Release.jpg

was hoping you wouldnt say that cause that size tool just broke. :thumbsdown1: guess its back to auto store.

ALMOST STOCK

10-26-2008, 01:35 PM

As much as I hate to say it going to have to remove that A/C line to gain more room.

BadMoFo

10-26-2008, 01:40 PM

new ratchet from sears did the trick on stupid screw. still no luck with ac line. heater core is stuck to the lid, like guy used sealent, sealent also on the screws to the lid.

BadMoFo

10-26-2008, 01:45 PM

hells ya! got the old pos out. the lid has all kinds of sealent on it. do I need to seal it back up when I put the new one in?

BadMoFo

10-26-2008, 01:46 PM

feel like running around the block holding up the old heater core like a prize shouting but I know the worst is yet to come. I got to get everything back togther.

bonesgt

10-26-2008, 01:47 PM

Dang, Josh sorry to see you havign so much trouble with yours bro. Wish you still in Gvegas cause you know we would be there to help.

bonesgt

10-26-2008, 01:48 PM

feel like running around the block holding up the old heater core like a prize shouting but I know the worst is yet to come. I got to get everything back togther.

Just set it up on the mantle as a trophy..LOL:lol1:

BadMoFo

10-26-2008, 01:54 PM

hey all us virgin fox body owners have to start somewhere when it comes to wrenching on the foxes. just wish I hadnt picked the most pita job to start with lol.

I know if I was still there you and chuck would have had my car in tip top shape. if you all ever feel like comming to the beach just let me know. you may never see the beach cause I have a ton of other projects to do, expecially now that I pulled the dash and saw how much rigging this other guy did. suprised this car hasnt caught fire yet.

ALMOST STOCK

10-26-2008, 01:58 PM

Yes you'll need replace the black sealant

BadMoFo

10-26-2008, 02:26 PM

well glad I cant get the lid on cause that would have sucked to ahve to take it back off. so when I put new sealent on is there a trick to get the lid back on? it gets withing a 1/4 in of popping on and gets stuck on the heater core.

ALMOST STOCK

10-26-2008, 02:57 PM

So you're doing all of this with the heatbox still in the car?

ALMOST STOCK

10-26-2008, 03:08 PM

In the link I emailed you earlier today http://home.netcom.com/~skent/mustang/1990/heater_core/hcore.html

about half way in the 6th paragraph it says

What I recommend is that it is ESSENTIAL to remove ALL of the black sealant BEFORE installing the new core! Unless of course, you enjoy this job and want to do it again. If you must use a sealant when re-assembling the heater core cover, I recommend Dow Corning RTV 3140. RTV 3140 is a silicone coating used in the electronics & aerospace industries because it is very lightweight and flowable. 3140's flowability will avoid any distortion or flexing of the new core when the cover is tightened, ONLY IF THE OLD BLACK SEALANT IS REMOVED! Remember, REMOVING THE OLD BLACK SEALANT IS CRUCIAL!

BadMoFo

10-26-2008, 04:16 PM

So you're doing all of this with the heatbox still in the car?

yes. and finally got it all cleaned, new sealent and back on. then the ac evap decided it wanted to fight me. finally got that screwed on. then disconnected where the guy had the hoses bypassed and he used a socket inbetween the houses. well anyways then the dash decided it didnt want to go back togther but finally have it back up and now at the part where I put the speedo in. but not the one that came out, my new 160 mph ssp speedo. :pray: please work right.

BadMoFo

10-26-2008, 04:17 PM

oh and if this thing doesnt work I am going to freeze, I dont care, will never do that again....................ever.

BadMoFo

10-26-2008, 04:36 PM

seriously is there a reason the **** speedo cable is so freaking short? how do you reach back there and hold that while you push the guages on?

BadMoFo

10-26-2008, 04:53 PM

ok just stuck a wrench up there to hold the cable while I pushed the guage on. and I have small hands and couldnt fit them in there.

blkho

10-26-2008, 05:37 PM

If you take off the bracket that holds the speedo cable under the hood on the drivers side below the brake booster,it will give you some slack on the cable.

Badass1993

10-26-2008, 07:16 PM

Dang Josh...glad you are on the right track.......and believe me when everyone here has asked those same questions you have,when we did our first one......You should have drove up this way,I would have slapped it in for ya

BadMoFo

10-26-2008, 07:46 PM

HEAT, there is HEAT in my car!

not totally finished as it got dark but have everything hooked up except the aftermarket guages, arm rest, and passenger seat (took it out for more room)

to chuck and bones, you were right, have to rewire the dash cluster so it functions correctly. brake light and check oil light stay on and it has a couple of bulbs out to. also I dont know if its cause of the crazy way the guy wired the guages but since I have not connected all the wires back up yet when I turn the car on the dash cluster turns on its lights but when I turn on the headlights none of the other lights in the car turns on.

oh and chuck I got tons of work for you in the future. Full exhuast work, and that means headers, h pipe and catback to include welding in hangers for the catback. also noticed today when the dash was somewhat out that on top of the quadrent for the clutch the guy had the cable pulled way out and 4 nuts keeping it there, which probably explains why the clutch engages at the floor.

but most of all I am just happy to have heat. just a little bit at a time and this might turn out to be a nice stang lol.

I want to thank all of you for the great help and putting up with a fox newbie. I look foward to many more projects.

bonesgt

10-26-2008, 07:52 PM

Hey bro, that what we are all here for..to help each other out and become a family. I just hate none of us were close enough to come help ya out in person.

ALMOST STOCK

10-26-2008, 07:55 PM

I want to thank all of you for the great help and putting up with a fox newbie. I look foward to many more projects.

Lets hope those other project you mention go a lot smoother. :lol1:

BadMoFo

10-26-2008, 08:00 PM

ya well if I ever meet the guys who designed the heater core set up and that speedo cable I am going to kick them square in the d&*@!

ya I wish you all lived closer to. would have made this a ton smoother. got to look up the rewire thing for the cluster, but not in a huge hurry on that. but will probably be in the next month or so. along with replacing broken passenger door handle and fixing non working elec locks and putting in new carpet. so you all need to get out all your good info and trick books.

BadMoFo

10-26-2008, 08:23 PM

oh and I also found out why my temp knob was being all weird, the cable is messed up. they use to sell them at 5.0 resto but they dont anymore. anyone know where I can pick on up?

ALMOST STOCK

10-26-2008, 08:29 PM

It's just one step at a time, believe me I've been there.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/almoststock/Headedforpaint.jpg

ALMOST STOCK

10-26-2008, 08:33 PM

oh and I also found out why my temp knob was being all weird, the cable is messed up. they use to sell them at 5.0 resto but they dont anymore. anyone know where I can pick on up?

Any pics of how it's routed that has a lot to do with the ease of moving the knob?

BadMoFo

10-26-2008, 08:52 PM

It's just one step at a time, believe me I've been there.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/almoststock/Headedforpaint.jpg

felt like mine was pretty close to that today.

no pics of the routing, one day I am going to buy a digital camera, but for some reason keep spending money on stang parts.

ALMOST STOCK

10-26-2008, 09:50 PM

I'll see if I can come up with a cable routing for you so that you can compare how yours is run as compared to the correct way.

Consider a dig camera as almost a necessity when you have a Stang, kinda like that part you need :sad1:

BadMoFo

10-27-2008, 06:24 PM

ya figuring that out.

Badass1993

10-27-2008, 09:07 PM

my suggestion to you Josh,if it is as boogred up behind the dash as you say,I'd look for another harness to swap in there,and just start the wiring over...probally will be your best bet.....I might know somebody who has one...I'll see if I can accuire it:thumbsup1: